Design Concept

This design is the improved version of my 16mm hinged lids. I optimized it even more to make sure it fits perfectly, and allows the new CFS Bowden tube setup to move freely without scratching up the lid.I gave it a fraction more height clearance, and fixed up the hinges a bit, to make the fit even better.

If you are looking for a version with left hinges, see my other model:

Left Hinged 20mm Lid Riser

Also, it installs perfectly!

Why do you need this?

1) if you like a lid on your K1 or K1C

2) if you don't want it to make your printer look like a castle from a fairytale

3) if you have a CFS, or you freed the bowdentube from the cable chain.

4) if you need more height without losing too much noise reduction or heat inside the printer.

5) If you can't have the lid swinging on the left side

What do you need to print ?

1) 3x 20mm - Long Insert

2) 1x 20mm - Short Insert

3) 1x 20mm Back Corner (no hinges)

4) 1x 20mm Generic Corner

5) 2x 20mm Generic Corner (NOTE : Mirror this model along the X-Axis)

6) 1x 20mm Hinged Corner

7) 2x Universal Hinge (reworked)

Assembly Instructions.

1) Print the assemblies listed above, or use the 3MF Provided.

2) Break away the supports. (For easy support removal: set the Z-offset to 0.265mm), they'll break right off.

3) Layout all pieces. Glue is recommended, but not needed.

4) Find 2 nails (0.1" or 2.5mm)

5) Slide in the lid.

6) Insert the screws.

7) Enjoy your new hinged lid raiser ;-)

Use 2pcs M3x24mm round hex nut bolts at the non-hinged side

Use 2pcs M3x20mm round hex nut bolts at the hinged side (countersunk holes).

(Warning: do not apply a ton of torque, handtight is good enough!)

20mm RIGHT Hinged Lid Riser for K1 and K1C (Perfect for CFS)

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 50% infill

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill