This is a cable tray / wire harness hider / organizer. If you use a top mount filament sensor bracket to relocate the sensor, you will need to extend the wiring harness. This tray allowed me to hide and secure the wires. It can also be used for any other top mounted equipment that requires wiring (lights, etc...).

Print Settings:

- PLA

- 0.16 mm layer height

- 3 wall loops, 4 top layers, 3 bottom layers

- 20 % infill, Triangle (Gyroid works also)

- No supports

- Optional - Brim (I printed mine without, but probably wouldnt hurt to use one)

ITEMS OF NOTE:

- The tray and lid are both set to 200 mm (about 8 inches). I created models for several other lengths, but rather than post them, you can just independently adjust the length axis as needed for the tray and lid.

- There are TWO tray LIDS available. One is a relatively loose fit and one is tighter.

- If you adjust the length of the tray and lid, the SHORTER you make it, the LOOSER the lid and tray and will fit. The longer it is, the harder it may be to slide the lid over the tray.

- If neither lid works, you CAN adjust the tightness / looseness of the lid by SPARINGLY adjusting the width axis smaller or larger. There is only about a 0.08 mm difference between my tighter and looser lids. If you are trying for a specific tightness, I would only make adjustments in the width (left to right as the lid lays flat on its back in the slicer) by 0.02 mm at a time. Perhaps - print a few different ones on the same job to be able to test various fitments.

- I don't have a 90 degree curved tray for the corner area. I am playing with trying to make one, just not sure how as the lids slide onto the trays. They do not snap/pop on like some I have seen. I can make a curved snap lid style, but trying to make it match the existing profiles is the issue. If I figure it out, Ill post it up.

- Attachment - This is a debatable one. There are a few ways to attach. I know that PLA, being an LSE (Low Surface Energy) material, does not stick well with double sided tape VHB tape. Researching online indicates that Nano tape as well as LSE VHB LSE-160WF (expensive) is suggested. I tried Nano tape and didn't have a lot of luck. 3M VHB (not the expensive LSE variety) worked well for me, however - I used a medium-fine file to rough up the back of the cable tray a bit, then thoroughly wiped down with 91% IPA to clean the surface. Also cleaned the printer frame with IPA. I used a lot of force to apply the tape to the tray first, pressing it down on a hard surface and used a cylinder (D battery worked well) to roll the tape into the PLA. Once I then applied the tray to the frame, it held well. Been on for several days. I did a test fit with a small piece first, applied it to the frame, then let it sit maybe an hour and tried to remove it. It took a LOT of force to remove. It nearly broke the PLA. I have no doubt that it will hold firm. If it lets go in the new few weeks, I will repost a new method, but I honestly do not believe it will. Surface prep is the key.

- Thank you for taking the time to look at my models! Hope they are useful!

Cable Tray / Wire hider Ender 3 V3/V3 Plus (and others)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill