This is a top mount relocation bracket for the Ender 3 V3 PLUS that I mentioned in my other top mount design (which was for the regular V3 coreXZ). This bracket, like my other, does NOT require the mounting screw holes in the rear. It does not need them, so my design does NOT incorporate a rear portion to screw into the holes in the frame.

This is for a few reasons; 1 - I wanted it to be a mild interference fit, and 2 - the holes in the V3 Plus are mounted in the lower portion of the frame instead of the upper, making it more difficult to design the fit. For those that would like one that uses the screw holes, I can design one that does - ** UPDATE - apologies for the delay, but I do have the bolt on / screw on design complete and uploaded at "https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/68460273a317339c9aa2610a?source=22"

As my other design, this one does not interfere with the "Creality" logo on the frame.

Print settings: I printed this with Hyper PLA at 220 deg nozzle, 65 deg bed. Infill was 20% Gyroid, 0.2 layer height, 3 wall loops, tree supports, 5 top shell, 3 bottom shell, brim. Print was about an hour and a half.

This is a one piece design. As far as slicing orientation - I did this one flat (as pictured). I do recommend printing on its side for strength.

To install this, start from the rear - place the bracket over the top rear edge so the thin channel "seats" in, then just pull the bracket towards the front IT WILL TAKE A BIT OF FORCE - the front left and right "clips" will flex and once it pulls down, it will "snap" into place, holding firm. This is a tight fit. I don't know if there is a lot of tolerance variation on the frames, but I am presuming there is not so should fit fine and hold firm.

ITEMS TO NOTE:

- Unlike my regular V3 design, you will NOT be transferring the original bracket that the runout sensor was attached to (on the print head gantry). That can remain. My V3 plus had a small cable loop that will hold the main wire harness to prevent drooping.

- The runout sensor bolts directly to the printed top bracket with M3 screws.

- Unlike the regular V3 - there is one issue. The V3 Plus runout sensor (at least on mine) does NOT have a bowden tube holder / compression fitting on both ends like the regular V3. Because of this I had to design a bracket that allows the bowden tube from the dryer to fit into it (press fit). The bottom of the sensor does have the bowden tube holder (see pics)/

- The sensor will bolt to the top mount bracket and the bowden tube holder bracket mounts behind the top mount. I used long M3 x 35 mm screws and nuts to hold it. Can get a box of screws with various sizes from 25mm to 45mm on amazon for around $12.00. You can probably just find 35mm M3 screws also.

- Just like the V3, you will have to extend the runout sensor cable. You will need some JST-XH 2S extensions which can be found online. Other option is to cut and solder in additional 22 AWG wire to extend it. I am also designing a cable tray to hide the wires. Should have that done in a few days.

UPDATE ON MODEL PARAMETER RECOMMENDATIONS - I recommend using PETG if possible as I believe the rigidity of PLA may cause the model to crack if it is placed and removed multiple times (I have done this for test fitting). PETG is a little more durable in that it is more flexible and less prone to cracking. If you want to use PLA/Hyper PLA, I recommend a few things - increase the wall count to 4 or more and increase the infill. Also - slicing it sideways with supports will also help (imagine a "T" on its side - not flat on its back). This will place the layer lines at 90 deg to where most of the force is exerted when you place it. I am working on a different design (as I mentioned previously) that incorporates the back screw hole locations instead of an interference fit. I should have that one complete by tonight or tomorrow and will post that up.

UPDATE ON ORIGINAL (INTERFERENCE FIT - NO SCREWS) - If you decide you still want to use the screwless/interference fit design, I have updated that one now (to version "V7") to be more durable (for PLA/Hyper PLA). I added relief cut fillets on the inside 90-deg corners to relieve the stress point. I also recommend you slice it as pictured - on its side. This will ensure the layers / walls are printed to provide the most strength. 3 or 4 walls should be sufficient.

Hope this is useful!

Ender 3 V3 Plus top mount filament runout sensor bracket

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 25% infill, Gyroid infill, 5 top layer

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill